Update: Knife + Fork re-opened as Percy’s Tavern Knife + Fork in September 2010, three months after it closed. They are now located at 210 Avenue A (13th Street).
After both of my visits (here, here), I was impressed with the quality and ambition of the food at a modest price-point. But it’s telling that after four years in business, the tasting menu was still just $45. The chef, Damien Bressel, would surely have raised it if he could.
The last time I was there, nine months ago, the dining room was nearly empty on a Wednesday evening, and Bressel was doubling as server and host (in addition to chef), as his only waiter had called in sick.
It seemed a bit sad even then, but somehow he hung on before finally throwing in the towel. We look forward to his next project.