The Pete Wells Wars

Last Update: November 23, 2016

Pete Wells, the latest New York Times restaurant critic, has been in the saddle for almost five years. How’s he doing?

Early Assessment: Wells is being extremely lenient on casual restaurants, but he has his knives out for upscale ones. Shake Shack got a star, despite inconsistent burgers and terrible fries. Parm got two stars, when it is basically a $25 & Under sandwich place. Il Buco Alimentari e Vineria got three stars, when it is in essence a slightly over-achieving neighborhood trattoria/grocery.

But Crown received one star, in a review dripping with contempt for its affluent clientele. Jungsik received just two stars, along with some condescending comments about Korea.

Wells’s grade inflation has doomed his tenure from the very start. One star supposedly means “good” in the NYT star system. In a world where Shake Shack (with all its faults) gets one, and Parm gets two, nobody will ever feel good about a one-star review, ever again.

We will have to wait and see whether Il Buco A&V’s three-star review was just a mistake, or if he intends to start handing out three-star reviews like Christmas candy. (This post will be updated periodically.)

The table below shows every starred (or star-eligible) restaurant review that Wells has filed, his rating, and what I consider to be the “correct” rating. Those Wells over-rated are highlighted in red; those he under-rated are highlighted in green.

The correct rating is based on a consensus of sources I trust. Sometimes, it is different than the rating I gave the restaurant when I visited. Where there’s not much to go on, I give Wells the benefit of the doubt. If you disagree, I am happy to refund your money. Oops! I forgot; you didn’t pay anything. Forget the refund, then. But feel free, to weigh in (with civility) in the comments.

As a point of reference, in my view one star ought to be a compliment, two stars a high compliment, and three stars an exceedingly high compliment fairly rarely bestowed. At any given time, there shouldn’t be more than about 50 three-star restaurants in NYC, and restaurants receiving that rating need to have it all: not just extremely good food, but the service, wine list, and atmosphere to go with it. (Three-star atmosphere needn’t imply crisp white tablecloths and Limoges china; by the same token, restaurants that take this approach shouldn’t be docked a star for it.)

Date	Restaurant	Wells Rating	Correct Rating
01/04/2012	Wong	★★	★★
01/11/2012	La Promenade des Anglais	★★	★
01/18/2012	Romera	★	zero
01/25/2012	Parm	★★	★
02/01/2012	Crown	★	★★
02/08/2012	Kutscher’s Tribeca	★	★
02/15/2012	Il Buco A&V	★★★	★★
02/22/2012	Shake Shack	★	zero
02/29/2012	Jungsik	★★	★★★
03/07/2012	RedFarm	★★	★★
03/14/2012	Acme	★★	★★
03/21/2012	North End Grill	★★	★★
03/28/2012	La Mar Cebicheria Peruana	zero	zero
04/04/2012	Gwynnett St.	★★	★★
04/11/2012	Kyo Ya	★★★	★★★
04/18/2012	Alison Eighteen	★	★
04/25/2012	Empellón Cocina	★★	★★
05/02/2012	Café China	★★	★★
05/09/2012	La Silhouette	★	★★
05/02/2012	Perla	★★	★★
05/23/2012	Le Bernardin	★★★★	★★★★
05/30/2012	Back Forty West	★★	★
05/30/2012	Back Forty	zero	★
06/06/2012	Neta	★★	★★
06/13/2012	Hakkasan	★	★★
06/20/2012	The NoMad	★★★	★★★
06/27/2012	Pok Pok Ny	★★	★
07/04/2012	Hill Country	★★	★★
07/11/2012	Almayass	★	★
07/18/2012	Atera	★★★	★★★
07/25/2012	Mission Chinese Food	★★	★★
08/01/2012	Reynard	★	★
08/08/2012	Nicoletta	zero	zero
08/15/2012	Biang!	★	★
08/22/2012	La Vara	★★	★★
08/29/2012	Rosemary’s	★	★
09/05/2012	Nougatine	★★	★★
09/12/2012	Governor	★★	★★
09/19/2012	Le Cirque	★	★★
09/26/2012	Ichimura at Brushstroke	★★★	★★★
10/03/2012	Calliope	★	★
10/10/2012	Yunnan Kitchen	★	★
10/17/2012	Blanca	★★	★★★
10/24/2012	‘21’ Club	zero	zero
10/31/2012	Talde	★	★
11/07/2012	NO REVIEW
11/14/2012	Guy’s American Kitchen & Bar	zero	zero
11/21/2012	M. Wells Dinette	★★	★
11/28/2012	Dirt Candy	★★	★★
12/05/2012	Moti Mahal Delux	★★	★
12/12/2012	Royal Seafood	★	★
12/19/2012	L’Apicio	★	★
12/26/2012	NO REVIEW
01/02/2013	Thirty Acres	★★	★★
01/09/2013	El Toro Blanco	★	★
01/16/2013	Arlington Club	★★	★
01/23/2013	Krescendo	★★	★
01/30/2013	Lakruwana	★	★
02/06/2013	Maysville	★★	★★
02/13/2013	Aska	★★	★★
02/20/2013	Louro	★	★★
02/27/2013	The Marrow	★	★★
03/06/2013	Mighty Quinn’s Barbeque	★★	★
03/13/2013	Jeepney	★★	★
03/13/2013	Pig and Khao	★★	★
03/20/2013	Chez Sardine	★	★
03/27/2013	Dining Room at The Modern	★★★	★★★
04/03/2013	Hanjan	★★	★★
04/10/2012	NO REVIEW
04/17/2013	Manzanilla	★	★
04/24/2013	Randazzo’s Clam Bar	★	★
05/01/2012	NO REVIEW
05/08/2013	Pearl & Ash	★★	★★
05/15/2013	Caravaggio	★	★★
05/22/2013	The Beatrice Inn	zero	zero
05/29/2013	Salvation Taco	zero	zero
05/29/2013	Taqueria Tlaxcalli	★	★
06/05/2013	Carbone	★★★	★★★
06/12/2013	Montmartre	★★	★
06/19/2013	Kajitsu	★★	★★★
06/26/2013	Lafayette	★	★
07/03/2013	Uncle Boons	★★	★★
07/10/2013	Alder	★★	★★
07/17/2012	NO REVIEW
07/24/2013	Daniel	★★★	★★★
07/31/2013	ABC Cocina	★★	★
08/07/2013	MP Taverna	★	★
08/14/2013	Costata	★★	★★
08/21/2013	The Pines	★	★
08/28/2013	Betony	★★★	★★★
09/04/2013	NO REVIEW
09/11/2013	Armani Ristorante	★★	★★
09/18/2013	Estela	★★	★★
09/25/2013	Lake Pavilion	★★	★
10/02/2013	NO REVIEW
10/09/2013	The Elm	★★	★★★
10/16/2013	Khe-Yo	★	★
10/16/2013	Whiskey Soda Lounge Ny	★	★
10/23/2013	Le Restaurant	★★	★★
10/30/2013	Hearth	★★	★★
11/06/2013	Quality Italian	★	★
11/13/2013	Sushi Dojo	★★	★★
11/13/2013	Kurumazushi	★	★★
11/20/2013	Piora	★★	★★
11/27/2013	Somtum Der	★	★
11/20/2013	Charlie Bird	★	★★
12/11/2013	Sushi Nakazawa	★★★★	★★★
12/18/2013	Marco’s	★★	★★
12/25/2013	NO REVIEW
01/01/2014	Toro	★★	★★
01/08/2014	NO REVIEW
01/15/2014	Bistro at Villard Michel Richard	zero	zero
01/22/2014	Han Dynasty	zero	zero
01/22/2014	Hirohisa	★	★
01/29/2014	M. Wells Steakhouse	★	★
02/05/2014	Annisa	★★★	★★★
02/12/2014	Gotham West Market	★★	★
02/19/2014	Mission Cantina	★	★
02/26/2014	Dover	★★	★★
03/05/2014	NO REVIEW
03/12/2014	Contra	★★	★★
03/19/2014	Rôtisserie Georgette	★★	★★
03/26/2014	All’onda	★★	★★
04/02/2014	The Peacock & The Shakespeare	★	★
04/09/2014	Jean-Georges	★★★★	★★★★
04/16/2014	NO REVIEW
04/23/2014	Telepan Local	★	zero
04/30/2014	Cagen	★★	★★
04/30/2014	Ristorante Morini	★★	★★
05/07/2014	NO REVIEW
05/14/2014	El Quinto Pino	★★	★
05/21/2014	River Café	★★	★★
06/04/2014	The Simone	★★★	★★★
06/11/2013	Gato	★★	★★
06/18/2014	A Voce Madison	★★	★★
06/18/2014	BLT Fish	★	★
06/25/2014	Tavern on the Green	zero	zero
07/02/2014	NO REVIEW
07/09/2012	NO REVIEW
07/16/2014	Grindhaus	★★	★
07/23/2014	Racines NY	★★	★
07/30/2014	Russ & Daughters Cafe	★★	★
08/06/2014	Ivan Ramen	★★	★★
08/13/2014	NO REVIEW
08/20/2014	Delaware and Hudson	★	★★
08/27/2014	Bâtard	★★★	★★★
09/03/2014	Bar Primi	★★	★
09/10/2014	Barchetta	★	★
09/17/2014	Claudette	★	★
09/24/2014	Sammy’s Roumanian	★	★
10/01/2014	Cherche Midi	★★	★★
10/08/2014	Huertas	★★	★★
10/15/2014	Élan	★★	★★
10/22/2014	Blenheim	★	★★
10/29/2014	Blue Hill	★★★	★★★
11/05/2014	Tuome	★★	★★
11/12/2014	Dumpling Galaxy	★	★
11/19/2014	NO REVIEW
11/26/2014	Bar Bolonat	★★	★★
12/03/2014	Marta	★★	★★
12/10/2014	Dirty French	★★	★★
12/17/2014	NO REVIEW
12/24/2014	Botequim	★★	★
12/31/2014	NO REVIEW
01/07/2015	Kappo Masa	zero	zero
01/14/2015	Upland	★★	★★
01/21/2015	NO REVIEW
01/28/2015	Blue Smoke	★	★
01/28/2015	North End Grill	★★	★★
02/04/2015	Cosme	★★★	★★★
02/11/2015	Kao Soy	★	★
02/18/2015	Shuko	★★★	★★★
02/25/2015	Semilla	★★	★★
03/04/2015	Via Carota	★★	★★
03/11/2015	Bowery Meat Company	★★	★★
03/18/2015	Eleven Madison Park	★★★★	★★★★
03/25/2015	Little Park	★★	★★
04/01/2015	NO REVIEW
04/08/2015	Limani	★	★★
04/08/2015	Estiatoria Milos	★	★
04/15/2015	Meat Hook Sandwich	★	★
04/22/2015	Santina	★★	★★
04/29/2015	Minton’s	★	★
05/06/2015	Mu Ramen	★★	★★
05/13/2015	Fung Tu	★★	★★
05/20/2015	Javelina	zero	zero
05/27/2015	Aquavit	★★★	★★★
06/03/2015	NO REVIEW
06/10/2015	Mission Chinese Food	★★	★★
06/17/2015	Blanca	★★★	★★★
06/24/2015	Noreetuh	★	★
06/24/2015	The Eddy	★	★
07/01/2015	NO REVIEW
07/08/2015	NO REVIEW
07/15/2015	Rebelle	★★	★★
07/22/2015	Lupulo	★★	★
07/29/2015	El Rey Coffee Bar & Luncheonette	★	★
08/05/2015	Untitled	★★	★★
08/12/2015	Chevalier	★★	★★
08/19/2015	Oiji	★★	★★
08/26/2015	The Clocktower	★★	★★
09/02/2015	Superiority Burger	★★	★
09/09/2015	NO REVIEW
09/16/2015	Casa Mono	★★★	★★★
09/23/2015	Gabriel Kreuther	★★★	★★★
09/30/2015	Houseman	★★	★
10/07/2015	Wildair	★★	★
09/16/2015	Momofuku Ko	★★★	★★★
10/21/2015	Bruno	zero	zero
10/28/2015	O Ya	★	★★
11/04/2015	Chomp Chomp	★★	★
11/11/2015	Jams	zero	zero
11/18/2015	Tempura Matsui	★★	★★
12/02/2015	Vaucluse	★	★★
12/09/2015	Sessanta	★	★
12/09/2015	L’Amico	★	★
12/23/2015	Wassail	★	★
12/30/2015	Señor Frog’s	zero	zero
01/06/2016	Sadelle’s	★	★
01/13/2016	Per Se	★★	zero
01/20/2016	La Chine	★★	★★★
01/27/2016	Achilles Heel	★	★
01/27/2016	Resto	★★	★★
02/03/2016	Benoit	★★	★★
02/10/2016	Llama Inn	★★	★★
02/17/2016	Pizza Moto	★	★
02/24/2016	Little Pepper	★★	★
03/02/2016	Bouley	★★★	★★★
03/09/2016	High Street on Hudson	★★	★★
03/16/2016	Insa	★★	★★
03/23/2016	Lowlife	★	★★
03/30/2016	Lilia	★★★	★★
04/06/2016	Le Turtle	★	★
04/13/2016	I Sodi	★★	★★
04/20/2016	Salvation Burger	★	★
04/20/2016	The Spotted Pig	★	★★
04/27/2016	Chaiwali	★	★
05/04/2016	NO REVIEW
05/11/2016	Café Altro Paradiso	★★	★★
05/18/2016	Momofuku Nishi	★	★
05/25/2016	Indian Accent	★★	★★
06/01/2016	Mr. Donahue’s	★★	★
06/01/2016	Ruffian Wine Bar	★	★
06/08/2016	La Sirena	★★	★
06/15/2016	Le Coq Rico	★★	★★
06/22/2016	Grünauer Bistro	★	★
06/29/2016	Freek’s Mill	★★	★★
07/06/2016	Nix	★★	★★
07/13/2016	Mimi	★	★★
07/20/2016	NO REVIEW
07/27/2016	Pasquale Jones	★★	★
08/03/2016	Agern	★★★	★★★
08/10/2016	Olmsted	★★	★★
08/17/2016	Gramercy Tavern	★★★	★★★
08/24/2016	NO REVIEW
08/31/2016	NO REVIEW
09/07/2016	NO REVIEW
09/14/2016	Hao Noodle and Tea by Madam Zhu’s Kitchen	★★	★
09/21/2016	Günter Seeger NY	★★	★★
09/28/2016	Sauvage	★	★
10/05/2016	Carla Hall’s Southern Kitchen	★	★
10/12/2016	Pondicheri	★★	★
10/19/2016	Karasu	★	★
10/19/2016	Zadie’s Oyster Room	★	★
10/26/2016	The Beatrice Inn	★★	★★
11/02/2016	Le Coucou	★★★	★★★
11/09/2016	Paowalla	★★	★★
11/16/2016	TsuruTonTan Udon Noodle Brasserie	★	★
11/23/2016	Fish Cheeks	★	★

Comments

[iamnotachef]

You give the New York Times the benefit of the doubt. You assume that they actually have an interest in objectively reviewing restaurants of note (and a few selected others). That is naive in the extreme. The Times has given up on any sort of objective reporting, and has moved to a personal, subjective model that changes with the personality of the current reviewer. It is no different than their news reporting, on which they pay much more attention.

Why are you surprised?

[Marc Shepherd]

Thanks for the comment. Where did you read the word “surprise” in my post? I never said I was surprised. After three critics in the row who suffer from similar faults, nobody who follows the subject could have expected any different.

I do not “naively” assume that they have any interest in doing the job any differently. That interest is mine, not theirs.

[CMoss]

Hello - Can you point out for us where the condescending comments from Mr. Wells were in his review pf Jungsilk? I read the few paragraphs backward and forward and can't see anything resembling 'condescending comments about Korea.' Thank you.

[Marc Shepherd]

@CMoss: The Jungsik review contained this comment: “All of this put the food of Korea on an equal footing with that of Europe and the United States, a forceful statement of national pride.”

Some of us (I wasn’t the only one) found this condescending, as it implied Korean cuisine wasn’t already on an equal footing until the chef started making it look and taste more Western.

[Matt]

FYI, I believe Wells gave Le Cirque 1 star.

[Marc Shepherd]

@Matt: Yes, correct. Thanks for the catch. It’s fixed now.

[rnh]

The correct rating is based on a consensus of sources you trust? I don't see how you can define that as a correct rating in any sense of the word. That you generally trust a rating doesn't mean that it's "correct" in any individual case. I generally trust Amazon ratings, does that mean that their average rating is correct and any other rating is wrong? I don't even see that you identify these trusted ratings, so we don't know what you're basing the "correct" rating on.

Please explain to me the point of this column, maybe I'm missing something.

[Marc Shepherd]

@rnh: You are taking this far, FAR too seriously. I think every sensible person understands that there is no such thing as a "correct" rating. I am being facetious. Most readers seemed to have realized that, as I've been doing this a long time, and you're the first to have made such a comment.

No, I do not state the other "trusted" ratings I've relied on. It will vary depending on the restaurant (some are reviewed a lot more than others), and anyhow that is not the point. Even if I provided scholarly footnotes for each entry, it wouldn't be any more persuasive, since there is no such thing as a truly "correct" rating.

The point of the post is just to catalogue what Pete Wells have done and provide one man's assessment of how well he has done it. Some people find it entertaining; apparently you do not, which is fine.

[rnh]

I wouldn't have complained if all the "correct" ratings were based on your own judgments. I do appreciate your responding.