Anthos

Note: This is a review under chef Michael Psilakis, who left the restaurant in March 2010. Anthos closed in August 2010. It is now the Empire Steakhouse, from the Ben & Jack’s team.

*

Anthos is the latest creation of Greek wonder-chef Michael Psilakis. For a self-taught chef, Psilakis has made a remarkable name for himself in just a few years. First he opened Onera on the Upper West Side. I loved the place, but the space was admittedly a bit dismal, and the location worked against it. And maybe the Upper West Side wasn’t ready for an offal tasting menu.

Then, he opened Dona, an Italian/Greek hybrid with comely restauranteur Donatella Arpaia. I wasn’t quite as infatuated with Dona as some other people, but there’s no question it was a big success. But then, Psilakis and Arpaia lost their lease, and Dona was no more. Around that time, he closed Onera and re-opened it as the more casual Kefi, and it’s now a hit. Then came Anthos (“blossoming”), which was meant to propel Greek cuisine to the three-star heights that Onera and Dona both missed.

The question is, did they succeed? Both Adam Platt in New York and Frank Bruni in the New York Times didn’t quite think so, both awarding two stars, though Bruni thought Anthos came awfully close to three. He pronounced it better than either Onera or Dona—both of which had won two stars from him—and several of his complaints seemed petty: “fussy tics” and “self-consciousness” (both recurring turn-offs for him), as well as “drab” décor (a complaint several critics have noted). He added, “Pauses between courses are too long, and not everything that arrives is worth the wait.”

We found Anthos to be just about everything a Greek restaurant could hope to be. Perhaps some of the early rough spots have been smoothed out. Or perhaps a Saturday in August, with the restaurant only half full, didn’t provide an indication of what service would be like when traffic is busier. We had no complaint with the purportedly drab décor, which seemed to us comfortable and appropriately restrained.

Canapés came first (above, left), followed by an amuse bouche (above, right). The server describing them had a heavy accent, and was difficult to understand. The latter—a smoked Halibut, I believe—was about one inch square. My girlfriend didn’t much care for it, but I thought it was successful. In any case, it must have set a record for most ingredients in a small package.

The menu at Anthos is re-printed daily. Both the appetizer and entrée I ordered aren’t shown on any of the online menus, and I don’t have exact descriptions. A Skate Salad (above, left; $16) was excellent, but I was especially impressed by Cod wrapped in zucchini (above, right; $33).

To start, my girlfriend ordered Sheep’s Milk Dumplings ($16), which were beautifully executed. But the highlight for her was the Roasted Chicken (above; $28), which was impeccably prepared, tender, and very attractively plated.

The wine list is a tad over-priced, but we found a wonderful Greek white wine at $55 (label pictured above). Curiously, the sommelier tried to steer us away from Greek wines—we weren’t sure why—but the choice we finally landed on was excellent.

Mileage may vary, but we left Anthos more impressed than we have been with any restaurant in quite some time.

Anthos (36 W. 52nd Street between Fifth and Sixth Avenues, West Midtown)

Food: ***
Service: **½
Ambiance: **½
Overall: ***

Hudson River Cafe

Hudson River Cafe caught my attention, in the first place because well publicized openings north of 125th Street are fairly rare, and in the second place, because it opened just in time for my big move uptown. It’s a beautiful bi-level space, with ample space both indoors and out. So far, it seems to be attracting mainly a local crowd. With live music on Friday nights, the bar resembles a bustling Caribbean resort, while the indoor dining room is a bit more sedate.

From the restaurant’s name, you might expect river views. But you’d be wrong. The only views are an elevated viaduct on the restaurant’s west side, and Fairway Market to the south. The architect and designer did the best they could with the hand they were dealt, but it almost seems a pity to have a restaurant with no view of the river it’s named for. We initially requested outdoor seating upstairs, where I thought we might have a decent view. Once we realized that a cement wall was all we could see, we asked to go indoors.

The only mainstream media review so far is from Randall Lane in Time Out New York, who calls it a “Harlem oasis” and awards three stars out of six. The cuisine is difficult to classify. Savory New York calls it “New American,” but Lane’s “Nueva Latina” might be nearer the mark. The menu offers several ceviches and paellas, and the choice of spices has a distinctly Caribbean feel. But there’s also an emphasis on locally sourced seasonal ingredients, like Blue Point Oysters and Bell & Evans Chicken. Some of the items are generic, like the raw bar, pastas, and steaks.

Arctic Char Ceviche (left); Crispy and Spicy Buffalo Shrimp (right)

My girlfriend started with the Arctic Char Ceviche ($12), which was absolutely spectacular—one of  the best ceviches either of us has tasted. The photo doesn’t show the depth of the serving bowl, but it was actually a quite sizable portion. We were also surprised at the bounty of Crispy and Spicy Buffalo Shrimp ($12), but the preparation was rather pedestrian and unsubtle.

Whole Branzini with Garlic Mashed Potato and Garlic Chimichurri Sauce

As one so often sees these days, the entrées are divided into composed plates ($20–34) and “simply grilled” items ($18–26), for which there is a multiple choice of side dishes and sauces. The Whole Branzini ($26) was in the latter category. It was beautifully done, and perfectly satisfying on its own; the garlic chimichurri sauce (which the server recommended) was redundant, and the garlic mashed potatoes (also a server recommendation) didn’t do much for me either. My girlfriend ordered the strip steak ($32), which was competent and unremarkable.

The beverage menu didn’t list the sangria, which is an odd omission, as it is terrific. We saw it on another table, so that’s what we asked for, and we were glad we did.

Hudson River Cafe is off the beaten path. The travel time from our Hudson Heights apartment turned out to be quite a bit longer than it appeared on the map—about 45 minutes. It’s a hike from either of the two nearest subway stops (125th Street or 137th Street on the #1 train). Some might be a bit skittish about the neighborhood, especially at night. While there’s plenty of activity in the immediate vicinity, the streets nearby are a bit desolate. We didn’t mind it at all, and will probably return, but I can’t yet call Hudson River Cafe a destination restaurant. With some judicious editing of the menu, it very well might become one.

Hudson River Cafe (697 W. 133rd Street at Twelfth Avenue, Manhattanville/West Harlem)

Food: ★
Service: ★
Ambiance: ★
Overall: ★

Smith & Wollensky

Smith & Wollensky isn’t quite the dean of New York steakhouses, but at thirty years old, it predates most this city’s beef emporiums. There are now S&W’s in nine cities. In New York alone, the same restaurant group also owns Post House and Quality Meats, in addition to the flagship at 49th & 3rd.

I believe I paid my first visit to S&W around fifteen years ago. My only recollection is the after-dinner cigars we enjoyed at the bar, an experience that couldn’t be reproduced today. A few weeks ago, a friend visiting from out of town was in a steakhouse mood. We chose S&W, as it was near his hotel.

S&W offers the same generic menu, at the same generic prices, that you find at most New York steakhouses. We both ordered the filet mignon, which came in a huge double portion. It was charred, nicely aged, and prepared to the correct temperature. The server was no doubt aware that it came with an ample helping of vegetables, but he didn’t mention that as we ordered an entirely unnecessary side order of creamed spinach.

The décor is unremarkable. When I wandered around looking for the restroom, it struck me that the upkeep was a bit sloppy, with various carts and trays left lying around in a hallway.

Smith & Wollensky has enjoyed four full New York Times reviews—a remarkable achievement for a formula restaurant. In December 1977, shortly after it opened, Mimi Sheraton rated it “Fair.” The format has apparently changed over time, as Sheraton described Smith & Wollensky as an “Italian steakhouse,” and there certainly is no vestige of that today. For the record, there never was anyone named Smith or Wollensky; the founder, Alan Stillman, chose those two names at random out of a Manhattan telephone directory.

In 1986, Bryan Miller upgraded the restaurant to “Satisfactory,” and then again in 1990 to one star. In its most recent review, in 1997, Ruth Reichl called it “A Steakhouse to End All Arguments,” awarding two stars. It was a peculiar headline, given her admission that she preferred Peter Luger (to which she had awarded three stars). To her, the difference was that at Smith & Wollensky you could order a fish entrée, and not feel like it had been an afterthought.

In  the last several years, there has been a glut of new steakhouses. Many of them mindlessly follow the traditional format, but a few have actually improved on it, such as BLT Prime, Porter House, and S&W’s sister establishment, Quality Meats. I suspect even Ruth Reichl would agree that, these days, a traditional steakhouse needs a little something extra to win two stars. These newer restaurants have it; Smith & Wollensky does not.

Smith & Wollensky (797 Third Avenue at 49th Street, East Midtown)

Food: *
Service: Fair
Ambiance: *
Overall: *

Mint

My friend Kelly and I paid a visit to Mint a few weeks ago. The décor has a cool, modern vibe that’s calculated to appeal to the East Midtown lunch circuit. At dinner time, it was not particularly busy.

The menu is a mix of Indian standards and a few original dishes. I shot photos, but didn’t take notes at the time. Our general sense was that the appetizers (top row of photos) were better than the entrées (bottom row). Kelly particularly raved about the Crispy Cauliflower tossed in Tomato Garlic Sauce (top right). The platings, however, are rather humdrum and might even be called careless. Prices don’t break the bank, with all appetizers at $12 or lower, and entrées at $20 or lower.

Service was a bit confused. There are different drinks menus at the bar and the tables. Our server had trouble understanding that, although we were seated at a table, we wanted one of the drinks from the bar. I cannot recall another restaurant with such a peculiar arrangement. Our bread order also flummoxed them.

Mint is a slight cut above the usual Indian restaurant in New York City, and certainly acceptable if you happen to be in the neighborhood, but not worth going out of the way.

Mint (150 E. 50th Street in the San Carlos Hotel, between Third & Lexington Avenues, East Midtown)

Food: *
Service: Satisfactory
Ambiance: *½
Overall: *

Felidia

Note: Click here for a more recent review of Felidia.

Felidia is the gold standard for Italian restaurants in New York. If the arc of New York Times reviews can be believed, it has only gotten better since it opened in 1981. Just three months after it opened, Mimi Sheraton awarded one star, finding the food “disappointingly inconsistent.” By 1988, Bryan Miller found it “more consistent,” bumping it up to two stars. By 1995, Ruth Reichl found it “charming and professional,” promoting it to three stars, which Frank Bruni re-affirmed last year.

Bruni said that Felidia “hasn’t changed all that much” since Ruth Reichl’s review, which only shows how careless he can be. Reichl referred to “the bare upstairs dining room.” Judging by the photo (which is almost exactly the view we had from our table), the restaurant has been renovated since then. Reichl also referred to “great wines (at great prices),” which today is only half true. The enormous wine list is still terrific (and hard to navigate), but no one would call it a bargain.

More importantly, Felidia got itself a new executive chef a year after Reichl’s review was published. Fortunato Nicotra has helmed the kitchen since 1996. With owner Lidia Bastianich busy running a restaurant empire, writing cookbooks, and hosting TV shows, it’s safe to say that Felidia’s three-star laurels rest on his shoulders more than anyone else’s.

I dined at Felidia with a colleague about a month ago. Everything we ordered was absolutely first-rate. Fortunato makes a terrific appetizer with asparagus, prosciutto, and a sunny-side-up fried egg. At $24 it’s rather pricy, but well worth it. (The rest of the appetizers range anywhere from $7–30.)

Pastas range from $20–36, but the restaurant will gladly divide an order at no extra charge. My colleague and I shared the duck pappardelle ($24), which was again excellent. Entrées range from $24–38. Crusted blue-fin tuna ($34) didn’t knock my socks off the way the appetizer and pasta did, but it was very solidly executed.

Tables are rather tightly spaced—at least upstairs, where we dined. However, it was not crowded, and there were none of the service issues that one occasionally hears about when this restaurant is busy. Service was polished, if perhaps not quite living up to the elegance of the food.

A couple of years ago, Lidia Bastianich teamed up with Mario Batali to open Del Posto, which was supposed to be the first all-out attempt at creating a four-star Italian restaurant in New York. We all know the story: Del Posto garnered only three stars from Frank Bruni, and many people thought he was being generous. Having now dined at Felidia and Batali’s flagship, Babbo, my sense is that Del Posto was less than the sum of its parts. Babbo and Felidia are the royalty of Italian dining in New York, and Del Posto is their bastard child.

Felidia (243 E. 58th Street between 2nd & 3rd Avenues, East Midtown)

Food: ***
Service: **½
Ambiance: **½
Overall: ***

Chinatown Brasserie

Note: Chinatown Brasserie closed in June 2012. The owners say it will relocated to an as-yet unidentified smaller space. The current space will re-open as a French restaurant helmed by Andrew Carmellini, with whom the same owners are in partnership at Locanda Verde and The Dutch.

*

Chinatown Brasserie is another of the high-concept big-box Asian palaces that have opened in recent years. But my girlfriend and I found it more pleasant and less cynical than many of its brethren. It’s owned by the same team as Lever House and Lure Fishbar, and once again they seem to have hit the mark.

The restaurant’s specialty is Dim Sum (various items, $8–22). We ordered a selection, of which I’m afraid I don’t have a specific recollection. The pièce de résistance was the traditional Peking Duck for Two ($48), which fully lived up to the better preparations of it that I’ve enjoyed elsewhere. (Other entrées were priced $17–28.)

Dim Sum

Peking Duck

Chinatown Brasserie (380 Lafayette St. between Great Jones St. and E. 4th St., NoHo)

Food: **
Service: *½
Ambiance: **
Overall: **

Bistecca Fiorentina

Bistecca Fiorentina is one of those Italian restaurants on Restaurant Row that looks like it’s been around forever. Actually, it has only been around since 2004, which makes it a youngster by the standards of that neighborhood. I selected it for an uncomplicated family meal before an evening at the theater.

Crostini; Tomato and goat cheese salad


Veal; Cheesecake

Italian waiters well schooled in the “Little Italy” style delivered competent service in an attractive “white table cloth” space. Perhaps it was not the best idea to visit a restaurant named for steak, and not order a steak. But that’s what we did. The food was fine all around, but basically indistinguishable from what is available at a hundred other Italian restaurants.

Bistecca Fiorentina (317 W. 46th St., west of Eighth Avenue, Theater District)

Food: Satisfactory
Service: *
Ambiance: *
Overall: Satisfactory

New York Journal Returns

Sorry about the long absence. Buying a co-op, and the subsequent renovations, moving, and unpacking, have pretty much swallowed all my free time over the last two months.

A number of restaurant reviews have gone unwritten. Several of the next few posts will be rather sketchy, as in some cases I have photos and/or vague recollections, but not enough detail to write a full review.

Now that I’m settled in, reviews should start appearing again at the usual intervals.

The Non-Payoff: Provence

Yesterday, Frank Bruni awarded one star to Provence.

For the second week in a row, we had a review that could have gone either way. And for the second week in a row—and indeed, this is becoming a depressing regularity, NYJ was on the wrong side of the bet. But for the first time in eighteen weeks, Eater was also on the wrong side, making this the first time in 18 weeks that both of us are losers.

Both Eater and NYJ lose $1 on our hypothetical wagers.

	Eater		NYJ
Bankroll	$37.50		$34.67
Gain/Loss	–1.00		–1.00
Total	$36.50		$33.67
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Won–Lost	14–4		12–6

Rolling the Dice: Provence

Every week, we take our turn with Lady Luck on the BruniBetting odds as posted by Eater. Just for kicks, we track Eater’s bet too, and see who is better at guessing what the unpredictable Bruni will do. We track our sins with an imaginary $1 bet every week.

The Line: Tomorrow, Francophobe Frank reviews the newly re-imagined SoHo bistro, Provence. Eater’s official odds are as follows (√√ denotes the Eater bet):

Zero Stars: 6-1
One Star: 3-1
Two Stars: 7-2 √√
Three Stars: 25-1
Four Stars: 25,000-1

The Skinny: For the second week in a row, Eater is practically on the fence, with only a smidgen separating the favorite (two stars) from the runner-up. Once again, there’s a reasonably good case for either outcome.

The case for two stars? As Eater notes, Marc Meyer and Vicki Freeman have already cracked the two-star code at Cookshop. And Bruni seems to have a soft-spot for husband–wife teams. Something about a small, family-run business appeals to him. A number of quaint restaurants run by married couples—usually Italian—have received two stars from him.

Eater also notes that this is technically a re-review—the restaurant received one star from Ruth Reichl, which Eric Asimov re-affirmed—and re-reviews usually come with a change-of-rating. That factor is probably less important here, as any Meyer/Freeman restaurant would pretty much demand a review. And when the review is driven by market events, Bruni doesn’t necessarily feel compelled to justify the effort with an upgrade or downgrade.

The case for one star? Well, the reviews of Provence have been decidedly mixed, and Bruni has never had much of a liking for French food.

The Bet: We’re two games behind in the pennant race, and we’ll never catch up without taking some risks. But we just don’t have a strong enough feeling about this one to bet against the odds. Two stars it is.