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In my never-ending search for perfection in steaks, I gave Delmonico’s a try last Thursday night. Delmonico’s has been operating at its present location since 1838. It is presently configured as a steakhouse, which is a wise choice in the financial district, because it seems bankers can never get enough steaks. The menu is pretty much the standard fare, at the standard prices. I tried the ribeye ($38), which is my benchmark for excellence in steaks these days. It was one of the better ones I’ve tried, though not on a par with nearby Nebraska Beef or Strip House.

The restaurant does get brownie points for ambiance, though. It is a comfortable and well-appointed space with white tablecloths and handsomely-dressed waiters, that makes you feel like you’re having a special night out.

My only complaint was with the wine service. When I asked for wines by the glass, the server said, “We have a merlot, cabernet, pinot noir, shiraz,” etc. This seems to be a peculiarity of steakhouses, where they don’t have a written list of wines by the glass, and you are only told the grape—not the producer, the region, or the year. At steakhouse prices, why can’t they tell you what they’re serving?

Anyhow, I was pleased with Delmonico’s overall and would be happy to visit again.

Delmonico’s (56 Beaver St, at William & S. William Streets, Financial District)

Food: *½
Service: *½
Ambiance: **½
Overall: *½

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