Today’s review of Tanoreen turned out just as we expected: an enthusiastic singleton from Sam Sifton in the Times:
Ms. Bishara’s translation of Middle Eastern cooking has Mediterranean accents, and occasional North American ones from her decades in the United States. And so the tang of cilantro enlivens some of her dishes, and the musk of basil, the welcome zing of jalapeño.
In the opposite direction, she makes a simple spiced roast chicken with potatoes (and, for children, a mean plate of fried chicken fingers with French fries and ketchup), and a stuffed cabbage that your Uncle Murray who only eats tuna salad would devour.
Tanoreen’s entrees are, in the main, less successful than the appetizers. Partly this is because the food doesn’t support the division of a meal into the Western tradition of starter and main course. After four or five delicious small plates, it’s difficult to do battle with a gristly lamb shank or one-acre lot of shepherd’s pie.
We win $3 on our hypothetical one dollar bet. Eater, which thought that two stars was the more likely outcome, loses a dollar.
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Life-to-date, New York Journal is 79–33 (71%).