Tiny's
Monday, October 3, 2011 at 09:29PM 
I admit some initial skepticism about Tiny’s, a small Tribeca restaurant that occupies a bright pink landmarked 1810 townhouse.
There are two red flags, right out of the gate. The guys who opened it, Matt Abramcyk and his family (brother, sister, and father), are better known for nightlife spots. And New York Rangers goalie Henrkk Lundqvist is an investor: restaurants associated with famous athletes are usually terrible.
Tiny’s defies the odds: I’ve visited twice, and loved it both times. This is rustic American bistro food, not especially complicated, but really well prepared. Defying the axiom that dinner these days is bound to cost $100 whether you like it or not, Tiny’s is reasonable, with appetizers between $10–13 and entrées $20–25. It’s a focused menu too, with just seven of the former and five of the latter, although at the bar various snacks and burgers are available too.
Dinner begins with warm bread that is simple but beguiling, with soft, spreadable butter—which I mention only because so many restaurants can’t manage this basic convenience.
Grilled chicken ($20; below left) might be the best chicken dish I’ve had this year: juicy and full of flavor, with a smokey crust on the skin and a hearty warm vegetable salad underneath.
Hake ($22; above right) was a shade less memorable, but nicely done, with a salad of artichokes and radishes under a white bean purée.
Both my visits were fairly early on weekday evenings. It was not crowded, and I was seated immediately. But on a Saturday evening at 8:00 p.m. I was turned away, and another day at around 10:00 p.m. there seemed to be a large crowd gathered outside. These are nightlife operators, after all.
A number of message board reviews mentioned poor service, but I was treated well on both visits. The décor is a similar drab chic that the same team nailed at Smith & Mills, a smaller and less accomplished restaurant. With exposed brick, metal chairs, and a pressed tin ceiling, I suspect it could get loud in here when full. But for an early dinner it’s delightful.
Tiny’s (135 West Broadway between Duane & Thomas Streets, Tribeca)
Food: *½
Service: *
Ambiance: *
Overall: *
