Acapella

Acapella is my second off-the-radar Italian place this week. The restaurant claims on its website to be “home of the finest Northern Italian Cuisine on the planet.” It also says that the first episode of The Sopranos was shot there. Acapella has a 24 food rating on Zagat, but it has never garnered so much as a mention in The New York Times.

My dinner there last night demonstrated that you can eat very well at Acapella, but they are not without missteps. To start, we were given plates of cured ham, marinated egglpant, and freshly shaved mozarella to go with bread for the table. A captain then recited in a thick Italian accent a list of specials that was longer than the printed menu. It’s a quaint custom, but ordinary mortals naturally have trouble keeping it all straight. At these prices, can’t they print a new menu every day?

I started with scallops, which came with a covering of hot diced tomatos. Unfortunately, the presence of scallops on the plate was only a rumor. All the flavor had been cooked out of them, so the dish was just tomatos accompanying something with no taste at all.

Rack of lamb was an altogether happier experience. I was not expecting a full half-rack to be presented table-side. It was certainly a spectacular show. They carried the rack away to a prep station in full view, where it was put into a pan and spectacularly set on fire. Moments later, it was brought back to the table, freshly carved with a peppercorn sauce and mashed potatoes. The lamb was tender and rare, in a generous portion that I was only too happy to finish. One of my companions ordered a veal chop that was massive.

After our entrées were finished, they brought out dessert glasses, and we had a serving of excellent homemade peach grappa. Throughout the meal, service was highly attentive, but also very rapid. Although we didn’t get the sense they were trying to get rid of us, I can’t remember a meal of this quality when the courses came out so quickly.

Our wine was an excellent Barolo. As a vendor was paying, and everything we ordered was off of the recited specials, I didn’t see what anything cost, but I am certain it didn’t come cheap.

Acapella (1 Hudson Street at Chambers Street, TriBeCa)

Food: *½
Service: **½
Ambiance: **
Overall: **

Caffé La Fenice

Caffé La Fenice flies beneath the restaurant radar. I’ve walked by it dozens of times over at least a five year period on the way to Lincoln Center, from which it is only a few blocks away. Given the paucity of dining options in that immediate vicinity, I was surprised to find it is not even in Zagat.

Well, it was Saturday evening, and I had no reservations before a 7:15 performance of Lohengrin. The usual standouts were booked, and I thought of La Fenice (which means “The Phoenix,” and shares its name with an opera house in Venice). Sure enough, they had a table, so we gave it a try.

I had a terrific grilled portabello mushroom, which was about double the usual portion, along with a perfectly respectable grilled red snapper. My friend started with a salad and then rack of lamb, which she thought was wonderful.

La Fenice has a wonderful selection of flavored martinis — I tried peach. As we had five hours of Wagner ahead of us, we didn’t sample the wine list.

The decor is uncomplicated faux Italian. There is sidwalk dining available on a spring or summer evening, and we enjoyed the fresh air. One complaint with the service was that the entrées were delivered before we were finished with our appetizers. They took them back to the kitchen, but it was an amateurish mistake nonetheless.

For uncomplicated solid Italian cuisine before the symphany or the opera, we’ll certainly be back to La Fenice.

Caffé La Fenice (2014 Broadway between 68th & 69th Sts, Upper West Side)

Food: *
Service: *
Ambiance: *
Overall: *

Ici

Ici is an unpretentious neighborhood restaurant in the Fort Greene section of Brooklyn. Like many restaurants these days, Ici emphasizes its reliance on seasonal local ingredients. It’s about a fifteen-minute walk from the Brooklyn Academy of Music (our reason for being there) and is a safe choice for a pre-show meal.

A friend and I had dinner at Ici last Friday night. I should have taken better notes when my memory was fresh, but I vaguely recall starting with a goat cheese salad that was unspectacular, followed by sea bass that was simply grilled, and presented competently without any frills. Much of the clientele seemed to be from the neighborhood. The outdoor garden is lovely, and the restaurnt is child-friendly.

Our meal was nothing special, but it was enjoyable and easy on the pocketbook. I will certainly consider going back the next time I am going to BAM. Otherwise, I wouldn’t make a special trip.

Ici (246 DeKalb Avenue between Vanderbilt & Clermont Aves, Fort Greene, Brooklyn)

Food: *
Service: *
Ambiance: *
Overall: *

Vino Vino

Vino Vino is a small wine bar in TriBeCa, right next to the old El Teddy’s lot. The space is divided by a glass partition, with the retail wine shop on the right and the wine bar on the left. There are comfortable benches with a view into the retail space, with small tables and upholstered stools. At the back of the deep, narrow space is a traditional bar with about 5-6 seats.

A colleague and I visited Vino Vino last night. There were less than 10 people there, leaving the space eerily solemn, but perfect for a quiet conversation. There seemed to be only one server, and it took him quite a while to come to our table, even though he didn’t seem to be busy. However, he was fully knowledgeable about the menu, and gave accurate descriptions of the two Pinot Noirs we wanted to try. We wound up having a glass of both — 2003 Christom Vinyards “Mt. Jefferson Cuvee” ($14) and 2002 Walter Hansel “Estate Cuvee” ($16).

The menu offers about 30 wines by the glass, ranging from $6–20; most are $10–15. The food menu includes a limited selection of cured meats ($9–13 ea.; $14, plate of three), patés ($10, plate of three) and cheeses ($9, plate of three; $15, plate of six). We shared the plate of 6 cheeses, which were excellent — again, well explained by our server, once we could get his attention.

The bill, including two glasses of wine apiece and the cheese plate, was $96 including tax and tip. Although service was spotty, we would definitely go back to Vino Vino, as prices are reasonable, and the space is both comfortable and serene.

Vino Vino (211 West Broadway at Franklin St, TriBeCa)

Food/Drink: ★
Service: ★
Ambiance: ★
Overall: ★

Flor de Sol

Note: Flor de Sol closed in early 2013.

*

Flor de Sol is a Spanish standout in TriBeCa. Zagat calls it “sexy” and “romantic”; I would agree.

I had lunch there today with a group from work. My assistant, who is Hispanic, adores the place. She highly recommended the sangria, but that wasn’t in the cards with an afternoon of work still to go. On her recommendation, I tried the filet of sole (just $11.95 at lunch), which was light, tender, and just slightly buttery. At dinner, they serve the sole in a banana sauce ($22), which I had several years ago, and was so memorable I can still taste it to this day.

Several reviews have mentioned that Flor de Sol gets noisy and crowded at night, but it wasn’t busy for lunch. Our food came out quickly—always critical for a working lunch.

Flor de Sol (361 Greenwich Street, between Franklin & Harrison Streets, TriBeCa)

Food: *
Ambiance: *
Service: *½
Overall: *

Molyvos

A friend and I had dinner at Molyvos the other night. We both ordered a Sea Bass special ($30), which was cooked to perfection — crisp on the outside, tender on the inside, and perched atop a bed of vegetables. I wasn’t very hungry, so all I had with it was the house cabernet ($12), which was unremarkable.

Molyvos has settled into a happy middle age. Ruth Reichl, reviewing for the Times, was utterly smitten in 1997, awarding three stars. Five years later, Eric Asimov was still enthusiastic, but took the restaurant down to two stars.

I have a sense that Molyvos is executing a well-trodden path competently, but isn’t doing anything that would make it a destination. Maybe it’s because there are a lot more Greek restaurants today in Molyvos’s class than there were in 1997.

The ambiance is a comfortable faux Greek, and we were pleased to be seated at a large table that could easily have seated four. It was a happy contrast to restaurants that insist on putting you at a two-top, even when it’s clear they’re not busy.

Molyvos (871 Seventh Ave between 55th & 56th Sts, West Midtown)

Food: *½
Ambiance: *½
Service: **
Overall: *½

SAPA

Note: SAPA closed during the summer of 2008. The space re-opened as Nuela.

*

The restaurant SAPA’s blurb on the OpenTable website leads you to expect that shotgun wedding of culinary styles that is usually called “fusion”:

Sapa; it’s namesake, an incredibly picturesque village that lies on the Hoang Lien Son mountain range near the Chinese border in NW Vietnam, was built by the French in 1922. Sapa marries the two cuisines under one roof, but not on the plate. The food embodies modern interpretations of Vietnamese dishes with an emphasis on share styled plates as to conform to the Vietnamese style dining and the French cuisine expresses versions of classic bistro and brasserie dishes.

The menu has evidently undergone some refinement since Frank Bruni was there in January 2005. Its length so offended him that it became the theme of his review, “So Many Dishes! A Little Help, Please.” As presented last night, SAPA’s menu did not appear overly long, and some of the specific dishes mentioned in the review are now gone. The alleged French bistro/brasserie influence is largely a phantom. Actually, I had forgotten Bruni’s review entirely, but I was looking for a dining spot in Chelsea on a Sunday evening, and SAPA caught my eye.

The gorgeous AvroKo-designed space is modern, sleek, and sexy. You know you’re in for an Asian-themed eclectic menu when you find both chopsticks and Western utensils at the table. To start, I decided to try the Spicy Tuna Rolls ($10). There were two rolls, about three-inches long and as thick as a cigar, and they came with three dipping sauces. Perhaps “tangy” would have been a better name than “spicy,” but whatever the name they were very good.

I was even more impressed with Cod Roasted in Parchment ($32). You expect fish cooked in parchment to retain its moisture (as this one did), but you don’t expect the combination with porcini butter, roasted mushrooms, and pureed potato to deliver such an effective flavor punch. This was one of the more delightful fish preparations I’ve had in quite some time.

My friend had a duck salad ($12) and stir-fry chicken ($25), and she appeared to be equally satisfied. Service was friendly and efficient. The restaurant appeared to be doing a decent business for a Sunday night, although they were well under half full.

SAPA (43 W. 24th Street, east of Sixth Avenue, Chelsea)

Food: **
Service: **
Ambiance: **
Overall: **

Frank's

Note: Frank’s steakhouse closed in early 2008. An inconvenient location, mediocre food, and the arrival of far better steakhouses nearby, finally doomed the place.

*

Frank’s, an Italian steakhouse, has been in business in southwest Chelsea since 1912. It recently (per the website) moved to 16th Street between Ninth and Tenth Avenues, a bit closer to the Meatpacking District / Chelsea Market action.

It’s pretty tough to imagine a restaurant more empty than Frank’s was last night. I believe there were three tables occupied, including ours. Perhaps there were a couple of guys hanging out at the bar, and watching the Yankees’ game on two large flat-panel TV screens. It’s a big space, and it’s hard to see how they can survive, if this is at all typical.

I ordered the “Lamb Chop” ($32), which actually was three smallish chops. They were cooked competently, medium rare as I ordered them, but came with no condiments, and for the price I thought it was a modest portion. My friend ordered the braised veal shank ($28), which was an enormous portion partially overcooked. The appealing bread service came with a bowl of antipasto and a tasty crumble of bleu cheese.

I hate it when the waitstaff try to sell you side dishes, and neglect to mention that your entrées already come with vegetables. One never knows for sure at these quasi-steakhouse restaurants. My lamb came with hand-cut potatoes, broccoli, and carrots. My friend’s veal came with a helping of rice that could have fed the whole Meatpacking District. Yet, our server mentioned nothing when we ordered a side of asparagus ($10) on top of all this.

Service was a tad slow, especially for a place that was practically empty, and therefore had no excuse.

Frank’s (410 W. 16th St. between Ninth & Tenth Avenues, Southwest Chealsea)

Food: Okay
Service: Fair
Ambiance: Okay
Overall: Okay

Gilt

Note: This is a review of Gilt under Chef Paul Liebrandt, who left the restaurant later in 2006. Click here for a review of Gilt under Chef Chris Lee. Those who were as impressed with Liebrandt’s cooking as I was can rejoice: in late 2008, he opened Corton in the former Montrachet space.

*

My friend and I had dinner at Gilt last night. Located in what was once the Villiard Mansion (and is now the Palace Hotel), in the space that was formerly Le Cirque, it is an opulent restaurant that is clearly trying to shoot for the moon. It doesn’t always get there. Chef Paul Liebrandt’s cuisine is adventurous, colorful, thoughtful, and frequently excellent. But there are too many dishes that fail to live up to their promise.

The menu at Gilt changes frequently, and is still clearly undergoing some refinement. Frank Bruni complained that practically half the dishes carried supplements on top of a $92 prix fixe. On last night’s version, I noted a supplement only on the Dover Sole ($12).

We chose the seven-course tasting menu, which is $160 on the website, but was $145 last night. There were, in fact, something closer to eleven courses, including two flights of amuses bouches, white asparagus, foie gras, skate, lobster, a palate cleanser, Berkshire pork belly, cheese course, another palate cleanser, and a degustation of chocolate. Every plating was a work of art.

I’m not adept at remembering ingredients, and Liebrandt puts more into each dish than any chef in town. We found the foie gras, the pork belly, and the cheese course spectacular. Especially notable was a decadent truffle butter that was brought to the table with the foie gras. But both fish courses disappointed. The skate was only about the size of a silver dollar, and it failed to make any impression at all. And there were just two popcorn-sized lumps of lobster. The white asparagus wasn’t as impressive as what Geoffrey Zakarian’s performance of it at Country. The chocolate degustation was terrific if you’re a choc-a-holic, but I think there should have been other options for dessert.

Gilt is clearly trying to offer four-star service, and at times it succeeds. For instance, Gilt was just the third restaurant I’ve been to (along with Alain Ducasse and Per Se) that has your coat ready when you leave, without the attendant even asking your name. But there were peculiar glitches. The wrong wine glasses were delivered to the table: a captain whispered, “No, the bordeaux glasses,” and the right stemware was quickly substituted. When you leave your table, the staff brings a fresh napkin. Or they’re supposed to. On one occasion, a new napkin wasn’t there immediately; on another, I had to ask for it.

Frank Bruni complained about the $1,000 glass of wine at Gilt. It’s still on the menu (a Screaming Eagle cabernet that’s ridiculously priced everywhere). When he first visited, wines by the glass didn’t come cheaper than $18, but there are now choices as low as $12 (though you’ll more likely pay at least $14). For wines by the bottle, there are plenty of choices under $100, and even a handful under $50. For a restaurant of this calibre, I can’t complain about that. My friend and I chose a Martinelli Reserve Pinot Noir at $122, which was out-of-this-world. It was more than we usually spend, but it was a night to splurge. Gilt does gouge you in other ways. Cocktails are $15 apiece, which is on the high side, and we were charged $9 each for capuccinos.

The room is small, elegant, and comfortable. The door to the kitchen is up a short flight of steps, and open to view, which detracts slightly from the magic of the occasion. The hard polished wood surfaces reflect sound, and when the restaurant fills up it gets a bit noisier than I’d like.

The bill came to just a hair under $500, including tax. We went home happy, and much of the food was as terrific as it should be, but at that price there should be a sustained excellence that was lacking. I can see why Frank Bruni awarded just two stars, but that seems almost punitive for a restaurant that aims as high as Gilt, and often succeeds.

Gilt (455 Madison Avenue at 50th Street, in the Palace Hotel, East Midtown)

Food: ***
Service: ***½
Ambiance: ***
Overall: ***

Sapphire

I’ve eaten at Sapphire a number of times before shows at Lincoln Center. It offers mainly the standard Indian dishes, but in a more elegant setting than one usually encounters for this type of cuisine. The embroidered tapestries hanging from the ceiling are especially striking.

My friend and I were there on Friday night. The Michelin Guide had suggested the Chutney Idli appetizer ($5), which is described as “Steamed rice and lentil flour cakes topped with coconut chutney.” This is a clever dish, but better for sharing than as an individual portion. You get five small cakes, but after about three of them the novelty wears off.

The Salmon Tandoori ($19) was more successful. It’s marinated in yogurt and spices before being skewered and grilled in the tandoor. The salmon has just a slight spicy kick to it, but it’s not a hot dish by any means. I enjoyed it, but thought that it was a touch too dry. My friend enjoyed lamb vindaloo, but said it wasn’t as hot as she’s had elsewhere.

Sapphire (1845 Broadway between 60th & 61st Streets, Upper West Side)

Food: *
Service: **
Ambiance: *½
Overall: *