I never thought that I would be quoting @OzerskyTV for review commentary, but today Josh nails it:
Sifton’s off. his. rocker. Two stars for Shaun Hergatt? Absurd. The obligatory middlebrow preening. When will this mummery end? The whole review is one big cheap shot. I’m sorry. This “fine dining is over” meme has now officially jumped the shark.”
Here’s another thing I never thought I’d say:
Come back, Frank Bruni! All is forgiven!
Bruni, lest we forget, made many of the same mistakes. But he was at least an original voice. Sifton is just lazy. The review is a mash-up of what Pete Wells wrote eight months ago.
Can we count all the ways the review is incoherent?
- He complains that SHO isn’t locally sourced. Marea isn’t locally sourced. It got three stars.
- He complains that SHO is old-fashioned. La Grenouille is old-fashioned. It got three stars.
- He complains that SHO looks like it “a good business hotel in Sydney or Zurich, Miami or Bonn.” Colicchio & Sons looks like Vegas. It got three stars.
Does Sifton have any plans to be relevant? If so, Right Now would be a good time to start.