Yesterday, Sam Sifton dropped the expected two-spot on Strip House:
The service is professional and attentive, with none of the gruff theatricality that attends tables at Sparks or Smith & Wollensky. The wine list is comprehensive and interesting, with reds to surprise palates and draw the attention of expense-account auditors alike.
And the food is generally marvelous, the steak often superb. Strip House belongs to Peter and Penny Glazier, the restaurant tycoons who own Michael Jordan’s in Grand Central Terminal, as well as mimeographed Strip Houses in Las Vegas and Houston, in Florida and New Jersey. The Glaziers buy a lot of meat. They use the leverage to secure excellent product.
John Schenk, the executive chef at Strip House since 2006, makes sure of its use. He has his line cooks grill the steaks tight and well, with a thick crust of salt and pepper that highlights the deep flavor of the beef.
We agree with the rating, but we are not quite sure why Sifton is spending so much of his time at restaurants that did not exactly cry out for re-reviews. There is still a long list of Bruni errors that require fixing.
This was the easiest two-star bet we ever took. We and Eater both win $2 on our hypothetical one-dollar bets.
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Life-to-date, New York Journal is 80–34 (70%).