Record to date: 10–5
This week, The Standard Grill is the target of substitute critic Pete Wells’s poisoned pen. At least, we assume it’s poisoned. The last two weeks, Wells has brutalized Gus & Gabriel Gastropub and Hotel Griffou with zero-star reviews.
By the way, we’re not insinuating that those reviews were unfair. We haven’t been to either restaurant, and are in no position to disagree. It’s just unusual to see consecutive zeroes at the Times, and it underscores the uncertainty of this critic interregnum: Wells marches to his own beat.
We’ll assume, as we did last week, that Wells is going to give out at least one star. Would he give two? That’s what Adam Platt did, though the food accounted for only one of those stars—the scene, the other. Is Wells a sceney guy? Heaven knows.
We haven’t been to the Standard Grill, but nothing we’ve read suggests it’s destination cuisine, our standard for two stars. We’ll therefore hold our breath and bet on one star for the Standard Grill.