While we wait for Sam Sifton, the Times’s Pete Wells is trolling the landscape for insignificant restaurants that do not demand the gravitas of a full-time critic. Last week, he gave us the smackdown of Gus & Gabriel Gastropub. Tomorrow, we have Hotel Griffou.
I doubt that Wells will deliver the goose egg two weeks in a row, but no critic yet has suggested that Hotel Griffou is an Important Restaurant. By process of elimination, we arrive at one star for Hotel Griffou.