Record to date: 10–3
According to @pete_wells, “This week full reviews return to NYT Dining with a writeup on Gus & Gabriel Gastropub done by some guy named Pete Wells.”
The restaurant is named for Chef Michael Psilakis’s father (Gus) and his son (Gabriel), because “he intends the restaurant’s cooking to appeal to the kid in every adult.” It’s perhaps a slightly more sophisticated version of the comfort food that the Upper West Side is known for: salads, burgers, hot dogs, sandwiches, meatloaf—that sort of thing.
According to the online menu, most of the food is below $15. It’s the kind of place that would originally have fallen to the $25 & Under critic, back when that column contained real restaurant reviews.
Pete Wells has no history of doling out stars, but we can’t imagine that this place is better than the subject of Frank Bruni’s parting review, The Redhead, which earned one star. So that’s our guess for Gus & Gabriel: one star.