Yesterday, Frank Bruni awarded one star to Co. We are still not sure what this review was doing in Bruni’s territory. If ever there were an obvious $25 & Under candidate, this was it. Anyhow:
Its sire and guiding spirit, Jim Lahey, hails from the breadmaking side of things. It’s bread above all he knows and loves, and you may well have tasted the evidence of that if you’ve eaten out in New York over recent years. Many restaurants buy loaves, rolls, focaccia and such from Sullivan Street Bakery, his yeasty baby. At least they do if they’re smart.
… … …
But he could indeed improve upon his pizzas somewhat. Although the best of them are outstanding and all pack the pleasures of a serious crust with serious blisters — Mr. Lahey uses an oven that generates heat in excess of 900 degrees — he hasn’t yet nailed the toppings. It’s as if he’s too focused on, and maybe too confident about, what lies beneath. A pizzaiolo-come-lately, he needs to sweat the cheese and the rest of it a little more.
We and Eater both took the one-star bet, but it paid only even money, so we win just $1 on our hypothetical one-dollar bets.
|* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *|