As Eater notes, this is Sifton’s fourth review of a re-located or cloned restaurant. Aureole, Oceana, and A Voce Columbus were all rated one star lower than they had been before. That bodes ill for SD26, which had two stars in its old location. In general, Sifton has been a tough grader, except for the odd deuce given to DBGB in his inaugural review.
This is Sifton’s third Italian restaurant, after Marea (three stars) and A Voce Columbus. All three have been on the rounds of the city’s major critics, and a hierarchy is clear, with SD26 conspicuously at the bottom of it. A weak deuce is probably the best it can hope for.
Given Sifton’s biases thus far, we think the safe bet is one star.