After a week off, Frank Bruni returns today with a review of The Harrison, clocking in at the upper end of two stars:
How often, really, do you go through four appetizers, entrees and desserts without confronting a total bore, a total bust or an overwrought underachiever?
Take it from someone who spends as many hours dining out as a cat does dozing: not often. Even the best, most exciting restaurants stumble from time to time over their own ambitions. They’re exhilarating rides, but also risky ones.
The Harrison, in contrast, is the very definition of dependable, poised to impress you, if not quite wow you…
Like the Red Cat, which is technically its older sibling but feels like its younger one, the Harrison doesn’t promise or deliver out-and-out excitement. But it safeguards against disappointment as well as just about any other Manhattan restaurant.
We haven’t yet visited The Harrison under new chef Amanda Freitag, but Bruni’s review captured the spirit of the place as we recalled it from past visits, though his complaint about the décor seemed off-key: “…the Harrison’s visual evocation of a country inn in the big city still strikes me as more stodgy than cozy.” We don’t find it stodgy at all.
We win $3 on our hypothetetical one-dollar bet. Eater, who had predicted three stars, loses a dollar.
Eater NYJ Bankroll $87.50 $103.67 Gain/Loss –1.00 +3.00 Total $86.50 $106.67 * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Won–Lost 39–18 41–16