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The Payoff: Barbuto

Yesterday, I suggested that there were two possible reasons why Frank Bruni would review Barbuto. The first is that he thinks it has improved since Eric Asimov’s review four years ago. The second is that he is bored. It turns out his reason was none of the above, in awarding one star:

The chicken is Rule No. 1, No. 2 and No. 3 of eating at Barbuto. It’s Rule No. 4 as well.

Bruni was so transfixed by the chicken that he had hardly anything else to say. The rest of the food is just as uneven as Asimov originally said it was. But if you order the chicken, the pastas, and “sharp chocolate budino,” you can have a fine meal at Barbuto.

The promotion—nay, overpromotion—of chef Jonathan Waxman’s cookbook got on Bruni’s nerves, as it usually does. Memo to chefs: When Bruni’s in the house, hide the cookbook.

We lose $1 on our hypothetical bet, while Eater wins $2.

          Eater        NYJ
Bankroll $61.50   $80.67
Gain/Loss +2.00   –1.00
Total $62.50   $79.67
 * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Won–Lost 27–11   28–10

Reader Comments (1)

I think the REAL reason Bruni reviewed Barbuto is that it's apparently someplace he eats at recreationally all the time. That's actually not a bad reason, is it?

January 9, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterSneakeater

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