« Veritas | Main | Rolling the Dice: Ilili »

The Payoff: Ilili

In tomorrow’s Times, Frank Bruni awards one star to Ilili:

In addition to its considerable charms, intermittent disappointments and svelte-letter palindrome of a name, the new restaurant Ilili presents a case study: how do you try to turn a medium-profile cuisine into a big-time event?

The answer isn’t revelatory to anyone who’s been foraging in trendy, splashy New York restaurants in recent years.

You throw foie gras at the problem. Raw tuna, too. You write a menu that permits diners to build a nibble-of-this, nibble-of-that meal from a lengthy succession of small plates. You add pulsing music and lavish décor.

For what it’s worth, this review may have set a record for the earliest posting in the Bruni era: it was on the Times website before 6:00 p.m., about 3–4 hours earlier than usual.

After a three-week losing streak, we decided to throw out all the BruniTrends®, and just went with our gut. As a result, the streak ends: we win $2, while Eater has now lost two in a row.

          Eater        NYJ
Bankroll $64.50   $77.67
Gain/Loss –1.00   +2.00
Total $63.50   $79.67
 * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Won–Lost 28–13   29–12

Reader Comments

There are no comments for this journal entry. To create a new comment, use the form below.

PostPost a New Comment

Enter your information below to add a new comment.

My response is on my own website »
Author Email (optional):
Author URL (optional):
Some HTML allowed: <a href="" title=""> <abbr title=""> <acronym title=""> <b> <blockquote cite=""> <code> <em> <i> <strike> <strong>