The Payoff: Grayz

In tomorrow’s Times, Frank Bruni awards one star to Grayz, as I had expected. He actually loved the food—there have been three-star reviews that weren’t this rapturous—but ultimately the restaurant’s “befuddled and befuddling” concept is its undoing:

These dishes demand fuller attention than the setting allows, and the prices — $39 for the short ribs — only make total sense if eating is the point of a visit. There’s an awkward mix of signals that distracts you from the kitchen’s efforts, which are noteworthy nonetheless.

I also stand by what I said earlier today: Grayz cannot coherently get two stars while Café Gray is also carrying two stars. Bruni’s version of the star system has its quirks, but I thought this review simply had to be one star. Now, if this had been a double-review, with Café Gray upgraded to the three stars it arguably deserves, then Grayz might have had a chance at two.

We win $4, while Eater loses $1, on our hypothetical one-dollar bets.

	Eater		NYJ
Bankroll	$60.50		$69.67
Gain/Loss	–1.00		+4.00
Total	$59.50		$73.67
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Won–Lost	25–10		26–9

Comments

[Sneakeater]

I hate to argue about star ratings when I don't even believe in them, but I view Cafe Gray as a failed three-star and Grayz as a successful two-star. So it wouldn't seem incoherent to me to give Grayz two stars.