Cafeteria is open 24 hours a day. It’s perfectly suited to clubland exiles who need a place to get over their 4am hangovers. A branch in Miami Beach no doubt appeals to the same type of crowd. But for Sunday brunch, which my friend and I tried yesterday, you can do a lot better.
Cafeteria isn’t a cafeteria. It’s a restaurant with sit-down service. Perhaps I should put “service” in quotes, because there wasn’t much of it. The milk to go with our too-strong coffee was served in a sugar bowl. You can imagine the mess when we poured it. Omelets took about 25 minutes to come out of the kitchen. (To that, add the 25 minutes we waited for a table.) Each omelet came with just a single slice of toast. We had to ask for butter.
The omelets were fine: nice and fluffy, with goat cheese and mushrooms (we both ordered the same). But nothing to rush back for.
Cafeteria (119 Seventh Avenue at 17th Street, Chelsea)