Entries from June 1, 2004 - June 30, 2004

Wednesday
Jun092004

Dominic

Note: Dominic has since closed. For later visits, see reports here and here.

I dined at Dominic last night. It opened last summer under the name “Dominic Restaurant & Social Club,” but the mildly odd “Social Club” seems to have been dropped. Dominic replaced a Portugese restaurant called Pico, which I never visited, but I recognize the same high-backed chairs that I always used to see when I passed by. I believe it is still under the same owners.

Chilled spring pea soup with spiced shrimp was a lively start. I hadn’t read the menu too carefully, so I would have been happy with just a solid pea soup, which this was. The unexpected spiced shrimp offered a flavor explosion, making me regret there was just one of them in the bowl.

Onto a main course of crispy Atlantic skate with endive marmelada and pink peppercorn vinaigrette, on a bed of stewed cherry tomatoes. Yes, the fish was delightfully crisp on the outside, with just a hint of the marmelade flavor suggested in the description. I couldn’t perceive the pink peppercorn vinaigrette, but the palate here seems to lean towards the subtle. The fish came with warmed greens and a three of a large vegetable I couldn’t recognize — shaped like sausages, but tasting like onions.

Appetizers are $9-12, pastas $8-12 for starter portions, $16-20 as mains. Other main courses (a mixture of meat and fish) are $19-26. Side dishes are $5. The prix fixe is $38 for any three dishes on the menu, or $52 with wine pairings. My meal of appetizer, main course, and a glass of the house wine was $46 with tax and tip.

Dominic’s décor is mostly unchanged from its Pico days. It’s comfortable, spacious, and friendly to the eye. Service was smart and attentive. I will definitely be visiting Dominic again.

Dominic (349 Greenwich Street, TriBeCa)

Food: *½
Service: **
Ambiance: **
Overall: *½

Tuesday
Jun082004

Ronald Reagan

Ronald Reagan, 40th President of the United States, died on Saturday, just short of his 93rd birthday, after a decade-long battle with Alzheimer’s disease.

His death also fell a day shy of the fortieth anniversary of the D-Day invasion. On the twentieth anniversary of that event, Reagan gave one of the most memorable speeches of his Presidency. It was a riveting oration on the Normandy Beaches that I saw again on C-Span the other night. The speech remains great theater even today. Cynics will say that Reagan was no great statesman, merely a skilled deliverer of speeches written by others. Even if true, which I don’t entirely accept, it is no small accomplishment to capture a moment as brilliantly as Reagan did that day. Anyone who doubts it should watch George W. Bush’s pale and unsuccessful attempts to do the same.

Ronald Reagan is the most prolific vote-getter in American history. There are fifty million more eligible voters than there were when he ran for President, but no one yet has captured the electorate’s imagination as he did. Whether you agreed with all of his policies or not, there was no denying that Reagan was an intensely likeable man. He is one of the few Presidents to have left office more popular than when he entered it. Even his Administration’s scandals and missteps, some of them serious, have not stuck to him personally.

To be sure, Reagan was the beneficiary of exquisite timing. In his first election, he had the great gift to have Jimmy Carter as his opponent. Despite a blazing intellect, Carter was an incompetent chief executive. He projected an image of self-defeat and aspirations to be merely mediocre. The failed mission to rescue the hostages in Iran, although not his fault, embodied for many the downfall of his Presidency. Any reasonably attractive Republican nominee was going to beat Jimmy Carter.

A President’s re-election is generally a referendum on the economy. By November 1984, the economic cycle was in full rebound. It’s doubtful that any Democrat could have beaten Reagan, but Reagan could hardly have had a more generous opponent than Walter Mondale, a retro liberal whose politics were about ten years out of date, and whose most memorable campaign pledge was to raise taxes. Mondale’s one enduring contribution to Presidential politics was to name the first woman to a major national ticket, but Geraldine Ferraro did him no good in November.

Even if some of Ronald Reagan’s accomplishments were handed to him by the Democrats, we must be careful not to underestimate his legacy. Ronald Reagan defines the modern Republican Party, which now controls both houses of Congress, most of the Federal judiciary, and has won four of the last six Presidential elections. Just as most modern Democrats want to be Kennedy, most modern Republicans want be Reagan. Indeed, Reagan’s legacy is by far the more powerful one. Kennedy was martyred, but he accomplished little; he is more important for the promise he showed than for what he delivered. Reagan’s policies are still with us. The leaders of his party continue to preach what he preached. Their greatest modern political defeat, George H. W. Bush’s loss in 1992, is attributed to his decision to endorse a tax hike, something the Party’s orthodoxy insists Reagan would never have done.

Most credit Reagan with the end of the Soviet Union and the Warsaw Pact, a process that began during his term and ended during that of his successor. To be sure, Soviet communism was running on fumes by the time Reagan came to power, and its eventual demise might have been inevitable, but Reagan’s hawkish stance certainly helped topple it. His speech in Berlin – “Tear this wall down, Mr. Gorbachev” – is one of the searing memories of the Reagan Presidency. It is a telling counterpoint to the famous Kennedy speech – “Ich bin ein Berliner” – which sounded a chord of pan-Atlantic solidarity, but didn’t exhort anyone to do anything.

Reagan’s greatest failure is a fiscally irresponsible tax-and-spend policy that, sadly, is still with us. His platform certainly sounded appealing: cut taxes, increase defense spending, shrink the rest of the government, and balance the budget. Unfortunately, only the first two happened, and the national debt tripled on his watch. The economic theory he endorsed – that reducing taxes would actually increase government tax revenues – has failed again and again. Yet, George W. Bush has sold the Congress and the American public the same bill of goods, with the same predictable results. A purported “tax simplification” bill passed during Reagan’s second term actually managed to make the tax system more complicated.

Whether you agree with Reagan’s tax-and-spend policy or not, its influence cannot be denied. On domestic policy, today’s Republican Party is essentially a one-note band, with tax cuts disproportionately aimed at the wealthy as the only substantive economic idea they have to offer. Republicans who favor fiscal responsibility and deregulation as engines of economic growth have been largely frozen out of the debate by party leaders who view themselves as Reagan’s political disciples.

I have mixed feelings about Reagan’s accomplishments and to what extent he was personally responsible for them, but I voted for him twice. Whatever faults he may have had, he was better for the country at the time than either Jimmy Carter in 1980 or Walter Mondale in 1984. I also favored the first Bush over Michael Dukakis, but I haven’t voted for a Republican Presidential candidate since. Reagan was what the country needed in 1980, but the party hasn’t had a serious original idea in decades. George W. Bush, who has none of Reagan’s charisma or charm, seems content to leave the government in the hands of clueless idealogues.

I must admit, I haven’t seen any great ideas out of John Kerry either, but as I noted at the top of this essay, a second-term election is a referendum on the incumbent, and it is hard to name anything that has gone particularly well under George W. Bush. Just as the 1980 election was more a rejection of Carter than an endorsement of Reagan, the 2004 election should be a rejection of Bush. Reagan took the opportunity that Fortune gave him, and turned it into one of the great Presidencies of the twentieth century. What Kerry will do is anyone’s guess, but at the moment neither party has a Ronald Reagan.

Wednesday
Jun022004

Brunch at Steamers Landing

Note: As of January 2011, Steamers Landing is now Merchants River House.

*

I enjoy living in Lower Manhattan, but my friends have often heard me complain about the lack of good brunch restaurants east of Broadway. Not the lack of restaurants (as there’s a good supply of them), but specifically the lack of restaurants with great brunch menus. I don’t necessarily mean “great” as in Normas, Sarabeth’s Kitchen, Bubby’s or Balthazar, but simply a solid weekend brunch place with a variety of omlettes, pancakes, waffles, etc.

Well, such places don’t seem to exist east of Broadway, which restauranteurs perhaps still think is a Monday-to-Friday neighborhood. A place around the corner from me called Cafe 92 serves low-end diner food, but it’s so limited and ordinary that one quickly tires of it. It’s a bit embarrassing to take guests there, although on occasion I have done so. That leaves the west side, where – thanks to Battery Park City and TriBeCa South – options are a bit more numerous. However, it is a longer walk. This weekend, I found a romantic brunch setting that might just be worth it: Steamers Landing, located on the Battery Park City esplanade between Liberty and Albany Streets.

I’d often walked by Steamers Landing while enjoying the view on the esplanade – one of Manhattan’s least known scenic treasures – but for some reason it never occurred to me to walk by for brunch. Turns out they have a wonderful brunch menu. Steamers Landing will never eclipse the city’s more famous high-end brunch eateries for its food alone, but they do a fine job, and on top of that is a spectacular view of the Hudson that beats just about any other restaurant in the city. Steamers Landing serves lunches and dinners too, but that’ll be a topic for another day.

Some Saturday or Sunday morning, when the weather is nice, head on out to Battery Park City and try out Steamers Landing for brunch. Be sure to sit in the outdoor garden. After that, take a nice long walk on the esplanade and walk off the calories you just inhaled. You’ll be glad you did.

Steamers Landing (375 South End Avenue between Liberty and Albany Streets, Battery Park City)

Wednesday
Jun022004

Miracle on John Street

"Miracle on John Street." It's not quite good enough to be a movie title, but I felt blessed last week when my rent renewal arrived, and there is no increase!

When I moved in almost five years ago, my rent was exactly $2000, which for those not au fait with rent stabliization law in New York City, is the lowest rent level that is not regulated. That is, the landlord can charge whatever the traffic will bear. A year later, it went up by 5%. Ok, I could live with that. Another year later, they hit me with a stiffer 12.4% increase. This was right at my pain threshold, but as there was no assurance of getting a better deal anywhere else, I stayed put.

Then 9/11 hit. In the immediate aftermath, the landlord volunteered a 10% rent cut. Residents were bailing out of Lower Manhattan in droves, and while tenants theoretically could be sued, there wasn't a jury on earth that would side with a landlord under such circumstances. Rather than be stuck with apartments they couldn't fill, landlords offered concessions and hoped the tenants would stick it out. Most did.

In the meantime, Congress appropriated funds for a Lower Manhattan Residential Grant program. Tenants in my part of town - below Chambers Street, and east of Broadway - were eligible for a $250per month subsidy if they committed to the area for two years. (Had I lived west of Broadway, the subsidy would have been $500/month.) At my next renewal, the landlord raised the rent by 7.5%, which if you're keeping track is still about $76/month less than pre-9/11 levels. With the HUD subsidy, my effective rent was $2034/month for two years, starting August 1, 2002.

As last weekend approached, I was bracing for the worst, knowing it was about the time of year when my rent renewal would be coming. Not only I about to lose my HUD subsidy, but the landlord would have the first chance in two years to raise my rent. If a May 30 New York Times article can be believed, vacancy rates downtown are just 5%, which (if true) would suggest that any post-9/11 reluctance to live in Lower Manhattan has largely evaporated. In short, I was convinced I was in for a very significant increase.

Well, it didn't happen. My HUD subsidy will of course expire in August, but my base rent will be the same for the third year in a row. What happened? For me, the HUD subsidy was a happy dividend of living downtown, but I intended to stay no matter what. I suspect, however, that there were many who moved in only for the subsidy, and for whom the rents were just barely affordable. Those leases are now expiring, and the residents are most likely headed elsewhere. With their apartments now coming on the market in large numbers, I would guess the time wasn't ripe for jacking up downtown rents.

I don't expect this to last forever. But with several big residential buildings coming on-line in my neighborhood over the next year, thanks to the Liberty Bonds program (another post-9/11 helping of pork from Congress), a healthy supply of new market-rate units should act as a drag on rents for the next year or two. Or so I hope!

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